Free tool
Wrap size calculator
Measure your cup, get your wrap, and watch it drawn to scale as you type. If your blank is in the size library, its page links here with the published numbers already filled in.
Measure these, then type them in
Everything the form below asks for, found with a flexible tape measure on the cup in your hand.
- Top circumference. Tape measure around the top rim, where the print area starts. Measured straight across instead? That is the diameter; times pi gives the circumference.
- Bottom circumference. Tape around the base of the body. On many cups it is smaller than the top, and that difference is the whole story of wrap shapes.
- Height, without the lid. Base to rim of the metal body only. The lid never counts, and the charts here all state height without lid.
- The taper. If the top and bottom measurements differ, the wall slants. That slant is the taper, and it decides whether your wrap is a rectangle or a curve.
- Where the wrap sits. The shaded band: from just under the lid lip down to just above the base. Your design height is the height of this band, not of the whole cup.
Your wrap
Bleed is not included in these numbers. Our recommendation, and it is only ours: add 0.15 to 0.25 in to the height so the print tucks over the trim, unless a lid lip is in the way.
Why the shapes differ
The maths, shown honestly
Straight cups
The wrap is a rectangle. Width is the circumference plus the seam overlap, height is your design height. If you measured a diameter, circumference is diameter times pi.
Tapered cups
The side of a tapered cup is a slice of a cone, and a cone unrolls flat into a curved band (an annular sector), not a rectangle. The calculator finds the slant height of the wall, then the bend: theta equals 360 times the difference between the two circumferences, divided by two pi times the slant. It reports the bend angle, the arc lengths, and the flat bounding box the curved wrap needs on your sheet.
The 0.1 in tolerance
If your top and bottom circumference differ by 0.1 in or less, the calculator treats the cup as straight: at that scale the seam overlap absorbs the taper, and a rectangle presses fine.
Reverse tapers exist
A few blanks, like Mecolour's dual-lid 22oz, are narrower at the top than the bottom. The maths is the same in either direction and the calculator handles both, but check that the lid end of the design ends up at the lid end of the cup.
Rather not measure? If your blank is a known model, its published numbers live in the size library. And if your last press left a pale gap down the seam, that is a solvable problem: the white line guide walks through the five causes.
Calculator questions
How do I measure my tumbler for a wrap?
Three numbers with a flexible tape measure: the circumference around the top of the printable area, the circumference around the bottom, and the vertical height of the area you want covered (stop below any lid lip). Measure the cup you own, not the listing: import moulds shift between production runs.
Why does my tapered wrap come out curved?
Because the side of a tapered cup is a slice of a cone, and a cone unrolls into a curved band, not a rectangle. Wrap a rectangle around a tapered cup and it must either gap at one end or crease. The calculator gives the bend angle and the flat bounding box the curved wrap needs.
Where does the 0.25 in overlap come from?
It is the widely used allowance in published templates: enough for the paper to lap itself so no bare line shows if the wrap shifts a little. Some vendors use less (Real Blanks publishes 0.125 in); 0.25 in is the safe common figure and you can change it in the form.
Should I add bleed to the height?
Our recommendation, and it is only a recommendation because no industry standard exists: add 0.15 to 0.25 in to the height so the design tucks over the trim lines, unless your blank has a lid lip that the extra height would fight.
Or skip the maths entirely
Every CraftPixelFusion design is pre-sized for the 20oz skinny at 9.3 x 8.2 in, with tapered versions on most listings. Download, print, press.